There are some experiences that stand out from among the rest. This was definitely the case for peering over the edge of Victoria Falls at Devil’s Pool. It was an unbelievable experience and something we’ll remember for a lifetime!
Since seeing a video of Devils Pool when I was in high school, this Victoria Falls experience in Zambia has always been at the top of my bucket list. This is a small, natural pool right on the edge of the largest curtain falls in the world! The incredibly brave guides will even hold your feet as you lean out over the falls edge. (Spoiler Alert: We made it back safely =) There is no better way to get to experience one of the seven natural wonders of the world than by peering over it’s edge! It is an experience unlike anything else in the world. It is definitely an adrenaline rush and probably one of the most amazing / crazy things we’ve done!
The day started off on the shore at the launch site for the Livingstone Island Tour run by Tongabezi. They are the only tour group that offer tours to this incredible experience. Here we received a safety introduction and met our small group of eight that we would be experiencing Devil’s Pool with. Next, we loaded into a small boat and headed out to Livingstone Island where we would start our swim! The boat ride itself would have been pretty enjoyable if we weren’t all nervously awaiting the experience ahead of us! The short boat ride down the Zambezi River was beautiful. We even spotted four hippos along the way! (Fortunately they were much further up river and not around the edge of the falls where we were about to swim.)
Once on Livingstone Island, we were greeted by the team of guides who would be taking us to the edge of the falls and given our final safety instructions before heading into the water. Due to the changing water levels, Devil’s Pool is only open between mid-August to mid-January. (These dates can change, so it’s best to go somewhere in the middle.) If you do not like swimming through strong currents, going somewhere in October or November is the best time to go. (However for pictures, the falls are usually prettiest when the water is higher.)
I cannot say enough amazing things about our guides from the Livingstone Island Tour. Two of them have been taking people safely to Devil’s Pool for the past 15 years! They know every current and rock along the way. They were extremely patient and made sure that we had the most incredible experience possible all while keeping us safe. While we were nervously sitting on the edge of the water, the guides fearlessly braved walking along the falls edge to make sure we got the best photos and were safe. They made sure beforehand to express that swimming out to Devil’s Pool is very serious and can be dangerous. It is tough to balance saying that Devil’s Pool is dangerous and there aren’t any harnesses to catch you. But at the same time I don’t want to hype it as some death-defying daredevil experience. We had an 11 year old do the entire swim and edge with ease! The thing that makes all the difference are the unbelievable guides. Thanks to them, Devil’s Pool is also something for everyone of all ages. In our group we had a family with two 13 year olds and an 11 year old. They were far more fearless than me and made hanging at the edge of a 354 foot waterfall look easy! In the next group, we even saw one of the guides put a lady in her 60’s on his back and swim her out to the pool!
We started out ny walking across some rocks and into the chilling Zambezi River. We didn’t know it until later, but we were actually the first group of the season to go to Devil’s Pool. The current was strong, but not unmanageable. The guides told us exactly where to swim and what to expect as they navigated us across the edge. Although the water definitely was strong, it is more about fighting fear and not panicking than it is being able to swim through the strong current. (Make sure to go exactly where the guides tell you and don’t stop swimming when the current pushes you down river and you’ll be okay!) I’ve swam in stronger currents before, but knowing that a 354 foot drop is down river made the stakes seem a little bigger than floating down any other ordinary river. Seeing how the guides helped people of all ages across the river during the highest point of the season proves that, if you can swim, you can make it to Devil’s Pool.
Em at first wasn’t sure if she wanted to do the swim. It’s pretty intimidating seeing the rushing waters dropping over the fall’s edge. But one of the guides stayed with her through the fastest current and gave her the confidence to make the swim. The guides are basically professional counselors that happen to work on the edge of a waterfall! =) They make sure everyone is comfortable and never push people to do something they don’t want to. However, if you want to experience Devil’s Pool and are able to swim but just need a little extra encouragement, they are probably the most patient guides of any extreme experience we have ever done.
We made our way through the river and to a small rock on the edge of the falls. It was here that we got our first glimpse of Devil’s Pool. At first glance, it doesn’t look any different than the rest of the falls. Due to the high water, we weren’t able to see the rock wall that makes swimming in Devil’s Pool possible. (I’m still not sure how the first person ever found out that swimming in Devil’s Pool was possible!) Looking at the pool, the realization sets in that just 10 feet too far in the wrong direction is a definite “no-go zone.” However, the pool itself is a safety zone. In over 15 years of guiding people from 10 years old to their 60’s, they have never lost anyone!
Because of the high waters, we each went one at a time. (Other times of the year, your entire group can sit on the ledge at the same time.) The first girl of our group swam out to the guides sitting on the edge of the falls. She made it look so easy and effortless. We found out later that she was the first tourist of the season in Devil’s Pool! Which meant Em and I were #2 and 3. Before I knew it, the guides were waving me into the water for my turn on the edge of one of the seven natural wonders of the world. It was a once-in-a-lifetime experience sitting on the edge of the falls. I could feel and hear the power of the falls, but was completely safe sitting next to the experienced guides. They make safety their #1 priority, but also make sure to make the experience fun. They instructed me how to sit so I could even lean out head first toward the edge! (It’s pretty cool getting to say that we touched the edge of one of the world’s largest waterfalls!) I was very thankful for the two guides holding my feet making it impossible for me to fall even if I tried. Feeling the rush of water fall over the edge of the cliff as we sat on the edge was something that is hard to describe. It was beautiful and slightly terrifying at the same time. But while I was scared sitting on the edge, the fearless guides walked confidently on the edge making sure we got the perfect picture! It was an unforgettable experience for sure! I was so proud of Emmy. She seemed less nervous on the edge than I was! I think we were both more nervous watching the videos afterwards!
And before we knew it we were back on dry ground! We had conquered Devil’s Pool and completed one of my lifelong bucket list goals. Our guides walked us over to the other side of Livingstone Island where we saw Angel’s Pool (aka Angel’s Armchair). This is a calmer pool that doesn’t require a swim to reach. However, it is still right on the edge of the falls, making it the perfect alternative for people who aren’t as strong swimmers.
Livingstone Island Tour is the name of the tour out to Devil’s Pool and Angel’s Pool. (There are locals who illegally offer tourists a walk on the edge of the falls but this is extremely dangerous and definitely not worth the risk! Devil’s Pool is only accessible by boat through the Livingstone Island Tour.) I am so thankful for the Livingstone Island Tour guides and can’t say enough how much we enjoyed our experience. After our Devil’s Pool swim, we had a very tasty lunch from a chef on the island. I am not sure if the food was that amazing or we were just happy to be on dry ground, but our entire group agreed that the meal was extra tasty! (While you’re on the island, be sure to check out the “loo with a view!” There probably aren’t many toilets in the word with as pretty of a view. 😋)
Tongabezi is the name of the company that offers this amazing tour, and their parent company is Green Safaris. Green Safaris has beautiful properties all throughout Zambia. One of their most popular lodges is Tongabezi Lodge, located on the banks of the Zambezi River. It’s a luxury lodge upriver from Victoria Falls. Conde Nast named Tongabezi one of the top 20 Hotels in the World! Other amazing locations that Green Safaris offer are Sindabezi Island Camp, Chisa Busanga Camp and Shawa Luangwa Camp. Chasa Busanga Camp looks like you are sleeping in a giant weaver bird’s nest and Shawa Luangwa Camp is located in one of Zambia’s best wildlife parks.
We are so grateful to be able to experience Devil’s Pool and for the guides who made it possible for us. This is definitely a once-in-a-lifetime memory we will never forget!!
